Rankin, born John Rankin Waddell, is a name synonymous with bold, thought-provoking, and unapologetic photography. Over the past few decades, Rankin has made a significant impact on the fashion and portrait photography scene, establishing himself as one of Britain’s most influential photographers. His work spans iconic celebrity portraits, daring fashion editorials, and socially impactful projects, making him a powerful voice in both the creative and commercial spheres of photography.
Rankin’s Photography Style: Bold, Raw, and Provocative
What sets Rankin’s photography apart is his fearless approach to capturing emotion and rawness in his subjects. Known for his bold and edgy style, Rankin’s images often break traditional norms, whether through stark close-ups that reveal every pore or high-contrast black-and-white portraits that leave nothing to the imagination. His work is often described as a balance between high fashion and emotional realism, bringing a sense of authenticity and vulnerability to his subjects, even in the most stylized shoots
Rankin is also well-known for his ability to push boundaries and challenge the status quo in fashion and portrait photography. Whether it’s a provocative editorial spread or a stripped-back, emotionally charged portrait, his photographs evoke a response—be it awe, discomfort, or inspiration. As Rankin himself said, “If you’re not making people feel uncomfortable with your work, then you’re not doing it right.”
Influence on London Fashion Week
Rankin’s involvement in London Fashion Week has been instrumental in shaping how fashion is visually presented. His fashion photography has been featured in leading magazines like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Dazed & Confused, which he co-founded. Rankin’s editorial work, often seen in the pages of these magazines during fashion week, brings a distinct combination of fashion-forward concepts and emotional depth that makes his photography stand out in a sea of polished, high-gloss imagery.
Rankin’s collaborations with designers at London Fashion Week have pushed the limits of how fashion is viewed and captured. His ability to fuse art and fashion photography has helped designers showcase their collections in a way that is not just about the clothes but about the attitude and the emotion behind them. By bringing in elements of portraiture and emphasizing the human side of fashion, Rankin has contributed to reshaping the visual culture of London’s fashion scene.
Rankin and BBC’s Glow Up
In addition to his work in fashion, Rankin has become a well-known figure in popular culture through his involvement in the BBC’s Glow Up: Britain’s Next Make-Up Star. As one of the judges on the show, Rankin offers valuable insights from the world of high-end fashion photography. His critiques are rooted in his years of experience working with makeup artists, models, and designers to create striking, editorial-ready looks.
Rankin’s role on Glow Up is more than just as a critic; he embodies the connection between makeup artistry and photography. The show, which focuses on discovering the next makeup artist star, often features challenges where contestants must collaborate with photographers to capture a perfect editorial shot. Rankin’s expertise helps guide these contestants through the process of understanding how makeup and photography work together to create compelling imagery. His presence on the show has also increased public awareness of how critical photography is to the world of beauty and fashion.
Impact on Photography and Fashion
Rankin’s impact on fashion photography cannot be overstated. Through his work, he has challenged and redefined how fashion is seen, not just as clothing but as a statement of individuality and emotion. By consistently pushing for authenticity and emotional depth in his subjects, he has shifted fashion photography from a focus on perfection to a focus on storytelling.
Rankin’s influence also extends beyond fashion. His work in portrait photography has captured the essence of some of the world’s most famous faces, from Kate Moss and David Bowie to Queen Elizabeth II. His candid and often intimate style strips away the veneer of celebrity and reveals the humanity underneath. These portraits, which often feature high contrast, minimal retouching, and a focus on the subject’s eyes, have helped Rankin solidify his place as one of the world’s leading photographers.
Beyond his technical prowess, Rankin’s work has also been instrumental in addressing social issues through photography. He has worked on campaigns to raise awareness around subjects like body image, mental health, and self-identity, using the power of visual storytelling to create conversations that extend far beyond the fashion world.
Rankin’s Commitment to Charity and Social Change
In addition to his remarkable achievements in fashion photography, Rankin is deeply committed to using his craft for social good. Over the years, he has collaborated with numerous charities, creating impactful visual campaigns to raise awareness around critical global issues. His work has supported organizations such as Oxfam, Women’s Aid, and Comic Relief, where his powerful portraits have helped highlight subjects like mental health, poverty, and domestic violence. Rankin’s unique ability to capture raw emotion has made these campaigns deeply resonant, inspiring empathy and action. Through these efforts, Rankin has proven that photography can be a potent tool for driving positive social change.
A Lasting Legacy
Rankin’s legacy in the world of photography is one of fearlessness, creativity, and emotional truth. His bold style and innovative approach have inspired a new generation of photographers to embrace the raw and the real, while his influence on London Fashion Week and editorial photography continues to set the standard for visual storytelling in the industry.
From his influential contributions to high fashion to his prominent role in mainstream media with Glow Up, Rankin remains a dynamic and transformative figure in the world of fashion photography. His rare talent for capturing the essence of his subjects, combined with his bold approach to breaking boundaries, guarantees that his legacy of innovation and creativity will endure for generations.
